hey Robin,
read this on a forum site, makes us appreciate
the 'calm lake' .
On Saturday, 8/23, 10 days after leaving Hanalei, we were halfway home to
Santa Cruz with 1190 miles to go. We had passed the Pacific High, and were
running in the Westerlies at latitude 38-38 x longitude 147 -17. So far, the
passage had been going well, my sixth return passage from Hawaii aboard
WILDFLOWER. But an ominous note on the thrice daily weather fax charts was
the notation “GALE” between our position and the Pacific Coast.
I began to plan for this possible gale by increasing latitude, slowing down,
and closely monitoring projected GRIB files out to 144 hours. It appeared
from all forecasts that we needed to slow down at least 48 hours to let the
gale ahead abate. However, it is against my instincts to try and slow a boat
down, and so with difficulty I reefed the main and dropped the jib in 8
knots of wind, reducing speed to a sedate 3.5 knots in smooth seas.
On Wednesday, 8/27, the morning GRIB file showed the area of most wind ahead
was between 124 and 128 degrees, with no weather abatement until at least
Monday, 9/1 earliest. Dwight on NA NA, 450 miles ahead, had reported gusts
of 42.5 knots from the north between latitude 127-128 and having to run off
under storm jib 80 miles. NA NA reported 20 foot seas the previous night
near 37 x 124-30. I hoped that WILDFLOWER, by being at the latitude 40
degrees, would allow us to run off 180 miles to the latitude of Santa Cruz,
should conditions worsen.
On Friday, 8/29, at sunset near 40 x 130, conditions began to rapidly
deteriorate. I changed to the #4 (75% short hoist) and storm staysail,
dropping the main completely.
The following day, Saturday, 8/30, with Santa Cruz 365 miles on a bearing of
095 T, we were having to run off due south (180 T) in winds
30-35 knots. By 1530, the sail combination proved too much, and I dropped
the #4, flying the storm staysail (39 sq.feet) and towing a 30” diameter
metal hooped drogue. It was uncomfortable, windy, and rolly that night, with
the cockpit filling about every five minutes, and the boat being knocked
down to 70 degrees at least half a dozen times. WILDFLOWER's shallow cockpit
and oversize drains allowed full drainage in about 90 seconds, and this was
not a problem.
The electric Auto Helm 1000+ tiller pilot was doing an amazing job steering,
as it was being continuously drenched, even submerged. The Sail-O-Mat
windvane was useless preventing or correcting breaking wave induced broaches
and I retracted its oar to avoid fouling the drogue rode.
On Sunday, 8/31, the wind was steady 30-35, w/ higher gusts and a confused
wave train from the NW, N, and NE. At 0915 I winched in the drogue to change
from a hi-tech spinny sheet to stretchy nylon anchor line. Unfortunately, I
found the drogue had split, and was no longer effective. I deployed my spare
drogue, but without a metal hoop, it would periodically collapse astern in a
breaking crest.
At noon, it looked like the gale was lessening. I left the safety of the
cabin, and with two safety harnesses affixed to the windward rail, began to
hand steer eastward on a reach with the #4. It was mogul sailing at its
best, having to radically bear away to avoid hissing 8-12' breaking crests
on the top of 15-30 foot seas.
At sunset I again went below with the Auto Helm tiller pilot continuing to
steer nicely under #4 jib. Not long after, the wind came on to blow from the
NNW, and the seas began to build further. That night I stayed suited up
below with full foulies, headlamp, and harness, ready to dash out the hatch
and take the tiller if the autopilot failed, and we subsequently rounded up.
In addition, I dropped the storm staysail, as we were running too fast at
6-9 knots.
Under bare poles DDW, the speed was better at 5-7 knots.
What followed ultimately played into the following day's events.
During the long night, my third in this particular gale, breaking crests
would poop the boat about every five minutes, filling the cockpit and
surging against the companionway hatch boards. Even though I had gone to
lengths for many years to insure fire hose watertight integrity of the
companionway hatch, I found the power of the breaking wave crests slamming
the boat would cause water to forcefully spray around the edges of the
hatchboards and into the cabin.
During the long wait for daylight, I had more than enough time to ponder
what might happen if the autopilot was damaged or was washed off its mount.
I had two spare tiller pilots. But it would take several minutes, exposed in
the cockpit, on my knees, to hook up a replacement in the cockpit, on a dark
night, when the boat was being periodically knocked down and the cockpit
swept.
In addition, I pondered the fate of the DAISY that was lost in the spring's
Lightship Race, when presumably a large breaking wave crushed and sank
DAISY. I also reminded myself I was responsible for not only my own life,
but was also a family care giver at home.
There was no doubt that if WILDFLOWER's tiller pilot was lost that we would
round up and be at the mercy of these breaking waves, some of which I
estimate to be in the vicinity of 25-35 feet, and as big as I hadn't seen
since the '79 Fastnet Race storm on IMP.
The anxiety and stress of this night, with the whine of the wind in the
rigging, the wave crests slamming into the hatch boards, and the 70 degree
knockdowns that would launch me across the cabin, created serious doubts
that we could continue this for another night, much less the 3-4 days the
conditions were expected to continue.
The boat was fine, and had suffered no serious damage yet. My physical
health was OK, but I could see with minimum sleep that my decision making
could be beginning to be compromised
At 0715 the following morning, Monday, 9/1, I Sat phoned my long time
sailing friend, ham radio contact, router, navigator and weatherman, Joe
Buck in Redondo Beach. Joe and I had maintained 2x/day ham radio schedule
since leaving Hanalei, and he had instant internet access to all forecast
weather and wave charts. I explained the current situation to Joe: that I'd
had a difficult night, and wasn't sure I could safely continue. Joe's
weather info had the highest wind and wave overhead on my current drift
southward continuing for at least another three days, with continuing gale
force winds and 18-22'
significant wave height.
I asked Joe for help in some difficult decision making I had to do.
First, would he phone San Francisco Coast Guard Search and Rescue (SAR), and
query what the protocol is for asking for assistance, all the while making
sure the CG understood I was not in trouble and was not asking for help at
this time. (Coast Guard NMC Pt. Reyes, Kodiak, and Hono were not answering
my radio calls on their published 4, 6, 8, and 12 mg freks, both simplex and
duplex.)
Joe called back an hour later (0830) on ham radio 40 meters and said that
Lt. Saxon at SAR reported no military assets within 200 miles or 20 hours,
that WILDFLOWER was 200 miles beyond helo range, but that there was an
inbound container ship TORONTO coming in my direction at an undetermined
distance.
Joe helped me to understand if the boat were lost, I would likely be lost
also. But if that I left WILDFLOWER in advance, that only the boat would be
lost. I told Joe of my hesitation of putting my life in the hands of a
possibly foreign crew on a big commercial ship during a transfer off
WILDFLOWER in these conditions, especially at night. We agreed that a
decision had to be arrived at soon, before 1130, and before TORONTO passed
by.
I spent the next hour, sitting on the cabin sole on my life raft, debating
whether to ask for assistance in leaving my beloved WILDFLOWER. “FLEUR” was
my home, consort, and magic carpet that I had built 34 years ago. I cried,
pounded my fist, looked out through the hatch numerous times at the passing
wave mountains, remembered all the good times I had shared with WILDFLOWER.
And came to a decision.
At 1115 I called Joe back and told him to again call Lt. Saxon at SAR and
inform her that I was asking for assistance. Joe called back and informed me
that TORONTO was 5-6 hours away, and that SAR needed to hear from me
directly as to my request.
At 1200, like a gopher popping out of its hole, I slid the hatch open to get
a clear Satphone signal, and called SAR. Lt. Saxon already knew my details
and position, and only asked “what are you requesting?” I replied, “I am
asking for assistance to be removed from my boat.”
We kept the conversation short and to the point, due to my exposure topsides
with the Satphone. She said the MSC TORONTO would be requested to divert,
that I was NOT to trigger the EPIRB, but that I was to take the EPIRB with
me when I left WILDFLOWER. Contrary to published reports, at no time did I
call “PAN PAN,” and no com schedule was kept with the Coast Guard, although
I did check in with Joe every 30 minutes on ham radio.
Lt. Saxon also said that if I left my boat, she would be considered
“derelict” and a hazard to navigation. I assured her I would not leave my
boat floating or derelict.
An hour later, at 1300, WILDFLOWER's AIS alarm rang. MSC TORONTO was showing
30 miles away, and closing at 23.4 knots from the south west.
I had to do some fast planning.
But with no idea how the transfer would be made (jump, swim, climb,
hoist?) I didn't know what I could pack into my bag, bags, or backpack. I
decided on my documents, wallet and and passport, laptop, camera, cellphone
and sat phone, logbook, EPIRB and a change of clothes and shoes. All this I
bagged into waterproof bags. And in a moment of whimsy, decided to try and
offload the two Single Handed Transpac perpetual trophies, as they had 30
year historical value to our Race.
At eight miles, the captain of the MSC TORONTO rang on the VHF. He spoke
perfect English, and as I had a visual, directed him to alter 20 degrees to
starboard to intercept. He explained his ship was over 1,000 feet long, that
he would lay her parallel to the waves and make a lee at a forward speed of
Slow Ahead (6 knots).
The captain also explained that I would board his ship from a rope ladder
that led to the pilot's door, on the aft starboard side.
I asked if he could slow to a speed between 3-4 knots, and he willingly
agreed to try.
At five miles, a sharp eyed lookout on MSC TORONTO sighted WILDFLOWER ahead.
But the ship's radar did not register my boat until 2.5 miles in these
conditions.
At 1415, one of the world's biggest container ships was bearing down on
WILDFLOWER, less than five boat lengths (125 feet) dead ahead, the huge bulb
bow scending 20 feet and making a five foot breaking wave.
With my heart in my throat, I motored down the starboard side of a gigantic
black wall, made a U turn, and pulled alongside the pilot's door and rope
ladder.
The crew threw a heaving line, and in the next five minutes we transferred
three bags, including the perpetual trophies. Knowing I was next, I jumped
below decks, said a final quick goodbye, and pulled the already disconnected
hose off the engine salt water intake thru hull.
Back on deck, I reached for the bottom rung of the Jacob's Ladder, which was
alternately at head height, and 10 feet out of reach, depending on the
ship's roll.
I grabbed hold, jumped, and did a pull up onto the ladder, and climbed up,
wearing a 15 pound backpack with my most valuable possessions and EPIRB.
At 1429, on Monday, 9/1, at position 35-17 x 126-38, the MSC TORONTO resumed
its voyage to Long Beach, leaving WILDFLOWER alone to bang and scrape her
way down the aft quarter of the ship and disappear under the stern. I
watched, but could barely see through my tears.
Four hours and 100 miles SE of where I left WILDFLOWER I was on the bridge
of MSC TORONTO watching the anemometer True Wind Speed graph continuing to
register 32-35 knots. From 140 feet off the water, the swells below still
looked impressive, and the ship was rolling enough to send spray above the
top containers on the foreward part of the ship
For the next 24 hours aboard MSC TORONTO (1065' LOA, too wide for
Panama) I was treated with the utmost kindness and compassion by Capt.
Ivo Hruza and his 24 man crew. We stood watch together, ate together, told
stories, viewed family photo albums, discussed the world situation, toured
the ship and engine room (12 cylinder, 93,360 horsepower diesel). By the
time we came down the Santa Barbara Channel, ahead of schedule, and docked
at Long Beach, I felt a part of this happy crew of 6 nationalities. I could
not have been assisted by a better or more professionally manned ship.
On Tuesday afternoon, after clearing customs and immigration aboard, I shook
hands with each and every crew member. And descended the gangway alone, to
meet Joe, sister Marilee, and begin New Beginnings.
I will never forget WILDFLOWER. She took a beating in this gale. She never
let me down, and took me to amazing places, where we met wonderful people
and made new friends.
In this time of loss, a most wonderful thing is happening: many loved ones,
friends, interested parties, and people I've never met are closing a circle
of love around the mourning and celebration of WILDFLOWER.
Time will heal a broken heart. I look forward to seeing everyone at Carla
and Mark's. I apologize in advance if at times I have to look away and wipe
my tears.
wow...underlying theme...respect Mother
Nature at all times!!!!! Back to
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